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The NDR magazine "Markt" tests 15 olive oils and uncovered a fraudulent label
Olive oil - an integral part of Mediterranean cuisine, whereby the quality classes "extra virgin" and "extra virgin" stand for the highest quality. But the oil does not always live up to the promise of the label. Instead, NDR magazine "Markt" has now found out from an examination of 15 different oils from German discounters and supermarkets that the bottles are often of poor quality.
Oils "extra virgin" and "extra virgin" stand for the highest quality If you want to sell your olive oil as "extra virgin" or "extra virgin", you have to adhere to the strict requirements of the European regulation for olive oil, because these two names are special High quality: “There are certain requirements in sensor technology and chemistry. If oils do not meet these requirements, they must not be sold as 'extra virgin', "explains food technician Christian Gertz in the NDR magazine" Markt ". For example, according to the regulation, oils with the names" extra virgin "or" extra virgin "must be used have an acidity of less than 0.8 percent, taste fruity, bitter or pungent and must not smell faulty (e.g. earthy or rancid).
Many oils do not meet the requirements of the EU regulation. Despite these requirements, many commercially available oils do not fulfill what they promise. The testers from “Markt” noticed four products in a particularly negative way: Dalla Quercia, Aro, Rapunzel and the olive oil from Alnatura (bio ), all of which did not meet the quality characteristics of "extra vergine" and also no longer had a long shelf life - the experts found that the Alnaura oil was no longer stable after even a day.
Many oils also failed the taste test - because in order to be sold as "extra virgin", the products also have to pass an elaborate taste test in accordance with the European regulation. For this purpose, the 15 oils were also tasted by testers from the German olive oil panel, who came to a sobering result: in addition to the four oils that had already been poorly cut in the laboratory, the oil from the "Sasso" brand and a wholesale product called "Fine Food" also had "Failed the test because they tasted" woody, muddy or musty "according to NDR.de. Accordingly, there were a total of six out of 15 oils that should not be sold as "extra virgin". Only the two most expensive products (O-Med Selection and Franci Frantoi) received a good rating from the "market" testers, because here the "fruit, bitter and pungent notes were balanced", while the other oils had only reached a mediocre level .
Inadequate controls under lax EU regulations Reason for poor quality The experts see the reason for the poor quality or incorrectly identified oils as insufficient controls, because according to Christian Gertz "state food inspectors could not recognize incorrectly declared oils for many reasons." On the one hand, too few samples are examined and the chemical processes of the EU regulation are too complex, on the other hand, laboratories would often lack reference values: "If you examine 20 or 30 olive oils once a year, you cannot afford to make a judgment about olive oils", said the expert.
According to Gertz, however, the central shortcoming would be the lax EU regulations: So it should be stipulated which method should be used for the chemical analysis of olive oil - but these would be from 1991 and thus outdated: "With the analysis methods that are fixed there, many can be done Often there is no evidence of adulteration, "explains the food technician. According to Gertz, olive oil experts would generally complain that oil is also an invitation to deliberately trick people, because "the problem is that a lot of money can be made with adulterated oils." According to Gertz, the result here is counterfeiting with other oils or varieties. "Cheap, actually inedible oil is partly mixed with normal olive oil" and "to remove unwanted tastes, it is then heated". According to Gertz, such a “cheek” could be detected with his methods, but the instruments of the EU regulation would reach their limits here.
Manufacturers reject blame According to the “market”, however, the manufacturers concerned see no need for action as a result of the investigation, instead the requests from the NDR were reacted rather cautiously and reference was made to their own investigations, which would have given the poorly rated oils good quality. For example, according to NDR.de, “Rapunzel” was “surprised” because “the oils had been examined several times with a large, in-house panel.” And also Alnatura and Metro Cash & Carry, the producers of the oils Fine Food and Aro, according to NDR.de are not aware of any guilt and blame "bad storage and wrong transportation" for the poor quality - which is doubted by the experts, however, because "these errors occurred during production before the actual pressing or manufacture - due to incorrect harvesting, storage or processing of the olives ", says Remo Viani from the German Olive Oil Panel. (No)
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